Copper-Bottom

.... sides, lids, handles and more. A stall at the beautiful, tempting flea market in San Telmo, Buenos Aires.

Carp

From the Jardín Japonés in Buenos Aires.

Xmas Buenos Aires Style

From the famous Galerías Pacífico, a shopping mall in a Beaux-Arts building in Buenos Aires. More photos of the murals and spectacular glass roof here.

Unique Flower

There have been (verbal) comments that this blog has become more political of late, and I guess the last post won't have helped but I think it still skews more "uniquely modern" than leftist. Anyway, back in Buenos Aires (and don't get me started on the politics there) there was another sculpture, a more modern (2002) but equally unique piece that took my breath away. Designed and paid for by architect Eduardo Catalano, Floralis Genérica sits on a reflecting pond in the Plaza Naciones Unidas. Using hydraulic mechanics, the petals of the huge (60') metal sculpture open in the morning and close with the last of the sun's rays.
Catalano also built the famous mid-century modern Raleigh House in North Carolina, a unique structure with a hyperbolic paraboloid roof that was named "House of the Decade" in 1955. Sadly, the house is no longer standing, it was bulldozed in 2001. Let's hope for a better fate for the metal flower.

Jesus Christ on a Jet Bomber

Buenos Aires is a city of art: sculptures in the parks, paintings in cafes and fantastic museums including MALBA. It was at the last that I saw a work that has haunted me ever since. La Civilización Occidental y Cristiana (Western-Christian Civilization) 1965 by León Ferrari hangs at the end of the exhibition space on the second floor and is as profound and valid today as it was when Ferrari made it to protest the Vietnam War forty years ago. Exploiting religious beliefs to make a case for war or imposing democracy on a country is arrogant, imperialistic and costs thousands of human lives; it doesn't work. I doubt if we'll ever learn this lesson from history, maybe art as arresting as this can make the case.

Cafe life

Sometimes you just need to sit down and catch your breath. Where better than a cafe with a well-stocked bar


in exquisite Beaux-Arts surroundings


and its own permanent art gallery - quality art everywhere you look. Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires is a landmark, it may be a little touristy but the architecture is spectacular. The only question is: do I need an espresso or a G&T?

And then there was food

Argentina is famous for its grass fed beef. I love it because it doesn't cause all those internal issues that corn fed meat can do (wind, gas or heartburn or whatever your particular affliction may be), and frankly, it just tastes better. Parrilla or grilled steaks, are available everywhere and in huge portions but our favorite turned out to be mollejas or sweetbreads. These were simply cooked, as all parrilla is, just seasoned with salt and pepper and served sliced with wedges of lemons on the side. Succulent and exquisite, without the addition of the usual cream-based sauce, they were very light. Just a simple watercress salad and a cubierto of bread, it made the perfect meal. We also tried the famous asado made in al asador or the embers of a charcoal fire, just like the gauchos cooked it, and ate the offal and chevito, baby goat, with a little chimichurri and a lot of Malbec.
But it's not all about the beef in Buenos Aires, the Spanish and Italian influences mean great desserts, too. As in Belgium, coffee is accompanied by a little sweet something, or even three somethings as in the photo above- a chocolate, a tiny biscuit and sliver of cake. And like in Europe, an entree is an appetizer not the main course. Hurray for logic and food heaven.